Kuffiya Kraze: Open Debate
With the critically acclaimed “Food & Liquor”, last year’s breakout hip hop rookie sports a red kuffiya on the front of this month’s “Leader’s of the New School” XXL mag cover as he discusses his much-anticipated folllow-up. The rest of the “New School Leaders” are dressed in the cover’s red, white and black color theme scheme. But even in the sea of blood red hats, white hoodies and chains, Lupe stands out with the patterned clothe wrapped around the rapper’s neck.
My question: Does Lupe Fiasco, an avowed Muslim rapper, join the ranks of trend-following celebrity lemmings, like Justin Timberlake, David Beckham, Ashely-Mary-Kate Oslen, Kirsten Dunst, as ignorant cultural consumers or is his decision to wear the kuffiya on the front cover of one of the most popular hip hop magazines carry more significance?
I am not trying to create a spectrum of varying degrees of cultural appropriation and/or cultural solidarity; but given Lupe’s religio-cultural background, I would argue come off more as a display of cultural solidarity than an empty fashion statement. I am willing to wager that Lupe knows a little something about the kuffiya’s history in the Arab world and its association with the Palestinian Liberation struggle. My perspective on this issue is possibly colored by the fact that I did indeed buy a Yemeni kuffiya on 125th from a devout African American Muslim who was also selling kufis many of whom in the Harlem and Brooklyn area have surprised me how much better their MSA (Modern Standard Arabic) is than someone who graduated with a degree in Arabic and Islamic Studies! But, in all actuality, African American Muslims who account for 30 percent of the Muslim population in America (edging out the percentage of American Muslims who are Arab), and especially Muslim hip hop artists, are no strangers to donning Arab/Islamic cultural symbols. Prominent hip hop journalist Harry Allen goes as far to say that Islam is hip hop’s official religion. Actor and hip hop artist, Mos Def, who has put on concerts to raise funds for the Palestinian struggle, has been seen on many occasions wearing a kuffiya and the Palestinian flag on stage!
But back to this question of cultural appropriation versus cultural solidarity, of ultimately authenticity; such a claim begs certain philosophical questions about culture: Who really owns culture? Can it be owned? Who determines authenticity? What determines authenticity? Attempting to tackle the first three questions would require more than the five paragraphs I set out to write for this piece (but feel free to wax on about them in the comments section!), so let me address the last of the series of questions. Even though the kuffiya has its roots in apolitical, non-religious beginnings, we cannot deny the symbolic evolution of the kuffiya to an icon for the Palestinian Liberation Movement. So, for me, those who are unaware of its past and current significance, and wear it because they saw it on a goth-ed out Galliano model, in the back pocket, gangsta style of a celebrity, or in Urban Outfitters as a “anti-war woven scarf,” those people, would qualify as culturally appropriating the kuffiya versus those knowledgeable of the misunderstood ‘clothe’s history would on the flip side qualify as expressing cultural solidarity.
Who knows, Lupe could just as easily be one of those ignorant trend-following celebrity lemmings as well…
